Making tuyu in Sobaya GOHEI

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The method of making tuyu is different between each soba restaurant.
However, the basic is common. Tuyu is made from Kaeshi and Dashi. There are 2 kinds of Kaeshi. Hon-gaeshi, Raw-kaeshi and middle of them.
18 litter shoyu, 3-4kg sugar and 1800-3600ml mirin are mixed and boiled. Then place to Refrigerator.
Dashi derive from conbu and sliced dried bonito.
Sliced dried bonito containss inosine acid and adenylic acid.
Conbu contains glutamic acid, aspartic acid, alanine, proline and etc.
Combination of inosine acid and glutamic acid makes dashi very good taste.

Making 18 litter tuyu, put 50-100g conbu to pan with water. And heat it.
Before boiled, put out pan from stove.
Remove conbu and cut it to small pieces.
Throw sliced dried bonito about 1kg
After 1 hour, remove lye.
well colord dashi.
strain
Add kaeshi to dashi with ratio 1:3-4. After cooling down, place to refrigerator.
If you make tuyu in a same method as we do, taste will be different from ours. The personality belongs to tuyu.

About sliced dried bonito

Bonito is one of the ocean-ranging fish that taste depends on season and place to capture. Best bonito is from near land in march to may.
Between April to July, bonito has less fat. This is also good.
Captured in August to September, -we call it Syunsetsu- has more fat and better for sashimi.

  • Hon-bushi : Cut bonito avobe 3kg to 3 pieces and cut vertically. We call back side Yuusetsu, front side Sisetsu.
  • Kame-bushi : Cut small bonito below 2kg to 3 pieces. We use it without cutting.

Nijuku

Place cut bonito in a large plate and boiled about several hours.
The below are the reason why boiled quickly.

  • To stop rotting.
  • To spread water inside bonito.
  • To stop enzyme to break inosinic acid

After boiling, bonito are washed and removed the bones and the skin. Then place to seiro.

Bai-kan

Bonito are smoked with broad leaf tree about 1 hour and dried.
Formaldehyde and phenol in smoke kill bacteria on bonito. When drying bonito, water within bonito are removed and phenol prevent oxidation of bonito oil. So we don't smell bad.

Drying at a time makes bonito break, and only surface of bonito is dried. Drying operation will be done about 10 times and percentage of water in bonito will be about 27%.

We call dried bonito Ara-bushi, and remove extra oil and slice surface of bonito to make it smooth. The method of this is named Ra-setsu. In western Japan, many people slice and use this as Ra-setsu [Katsuo kezuri bushi]

Add mold

Add mold to Ra-setsu, and dry it. Do the same as 3-4 times changes it Hon kare-bushi
Mold makes more taste.
In eastern Japan, people slice and use this as Katsuo kezuri-bushi.